What do we use to fragrance cosmetic formulations?

The right fragrance can be half the battle when it comes to selling cosmetics. As soon as we open a package, most of us instinctively smell the product. Either we like the fragrance or we don’t - and if we don’t, there’s probably little chance we’ll buy it again.

So, what is added to a cosmetic formulation to make it smell good? A fragrance composition.

Choosing the right one is far from easy, because everyone has very individual preferences. It’s a considerable challenge for the perfumer, the formulator, and the marketing team alike.

The fragrance of a formulation should also correspond to its intended use. After all, a night cream smells different from a day cream. A shampoo has a different fragrance profile than a hand cream. And, naturally, cosmetics designed for younger consumers may have a very different fragrance from those intended for mature consumers.

It’s also important to remember that in products formulated for sensitive skin, fragrance compositions are often left out altogether.

The pure fragrance composition that a formulator works with is a liquid concentrate. Interestingly, the way it “develops” can vary depending on the cosmetic base it is added to.

For example, the same fragrance composition will smell slightly different in an oil-based product, such as a massage oil, than it does in a face serum, and different again in a shampoo.

This is because a fragrance blend can contain many different chemical substances, each with a different affinity for water and oil. Their solubility in a particular medium - oil or water - plays a key role in the fragrance notes we perceive.

Creating a cosmetically cohesive fragrance profile across an entire product line can therefore be quite a challenge for both the formulator and the perfumer.

Is this the only way to give a cosmetic formulation a pleasant scent? No. You can also use essential oils (with caution) or hydrosols.

Is it necessary to fragrance a formulation? Unless the product is intended for a specific group of consumers - such as newborns or people with atopic dermatitis or psoriasis - it is generally a good idea to fragrance it. Fragrance significantly enhances the sensory experience of a cosmetic - quite simply, it makes the product more pleasant to use.

A plain cream base can have a somewhat synthetic smell, while products based on pure oils may smell oily or, even worse, slightly rancid. Sometimes the raw materials used in a product - oils or active ingredients - have such an unpleasant odour that it remains noticeable throughout the entire formulation and makes the product unpleasant to use. In such cases, a fragrance composition is used to mask the unwanted odour.

Cosmetic fragrance compositions can contain a wide range of liquid, resinous and powdered substances, both synthetic and natural. They may also contain a carrier or solvent.

The higher the proportion of natural ingredients, the higher the cost of the fragrance composition.