The Sum of Events a.d. 2024
Inspired by a popular period drama series on a well-known streaming platform, I should probably begin with the words, “Dearest, gentle reader...” but... at Countess, we love doing things our own unique way, so I’ll start a little differently 😉
The recently started year 2025 is, for many, a reason to reflect on the previous one 2024 - and to set resolutions for the new year. This often results in numerous posts on social media. I recently came across some lightly sarcastic posts on LinkedIn, calling these types of entries “propaganda of success without substance.” However, I must stand in defense of those ladies and gentlemen who want to share their achievements, especially in these challenging times for our industry. Besides, who enjoys boasting about their failures? We draw lessons from such situations and mitigate their effects so that the next year we can once again spread “propaganda” and toast with champagne for our health 🍾🥂
You might be a little curious about what’s happened or changed for us? I promise to touch on the failures too 😉
1. In July, we celebrated our 3rd anniversary.
While that’s not a long time, looking back at the period before starting the company, the “old me” and those earlier challenges feel like something from a different universe. We have a lot of work and constantly churn through new formulations - we think we’ve finally dealt with the most urgent issues, only for another mountain to suddenly appear before us. But we’re not complaining and still feel the excitement for each new project!
For me, the phrase “work-life balance” practically doesn’t exist, and I question whether any entrepreneur can truly achieve it. To maintain good relationships with clients, sometimes you have to force yourself to take another call at 6 p.m. or early on a Saturday morning. From our observations, the biggest issue for other companies is a lack of responsiveness. For us, this is a priority that sometimes turns into a lack of assertiveness. Yes, yes - we still have a lot to learn 😉
2. We’ve quadrupled the size of our lab.
Until we fill it completely with samples (and we’re doing so quickly and efficiently), we have plenty of space for dancing 🕺🏻💃. We also bought new furniture and equipment.
3. We expanded our conference room.
It’s a comfortable and elegant space for meetings, negotiations, and training sessions, but also for a quick break from the lab. Those who’ve been there know what I mean ☺️ As a reward for good results and hard work, we got ourselves a dream chaise lounge, where I sometimes manage to take a power nap 😴.
4. Our team has grown by one more person 🤩 👩🏻🦳👩🏻👩🏼.
5. We carried out two fun company campaigns:
The Countess’ Beauty Spot at In-Cosmetics in Paris and festive brooches and pocket squares (everyone got a unique one).
6. We managed to attend most trade fairs.
Unfortunately, we didn’t make it to Bologna, but this year there are no excuses - we’re going, and we’ll walk until we have blisters, exploring every single aisle! However, In-Cosmetics Amsterdam is still uncertain.
7. We participated in almost all distributor seminars.
You’ve likely seen posts about them. I didn’t manage to describe two or three of them, but not because they were boring-absolutely not! There’s always something interesting. I just ran out of time - I’m not the most efficient copywriter and write all the content myself 😅 It also happens (very rarely) that we don't have an invitation to certain seminars or workshops.
8. Our formulations received three awards and two nominations.
(Not all can be mentioned due to NDAs.) We sincerely wish our clients to surpass this result in the coming year!
9. We wrote seven articles for industry magazines
“Chemia i biznes”, “Świat Przemysłu Kosmetycznego”, “Świat Przemysłu Farmaceutycznego”, “Kosmetologia Estetyczna”, gave an interview for “Twój Styl,” appeared on the podcast “Żyj Kolorowo,” and delivered a lecture at the 47th LNE Congress.
10. We gained many new clients.
Most came through the only postal service that works effectively in Poland-word of mouth. We’re thrilled that you recommend us. Long-term clients return for new formulations, bringing us joy and satisfaction because that’s the best indicator of trust 😀 With some, we've been through thick and thin together. Unfortunately, we had to end cooperation with two clients.
If you’ve made it this far, you’re probably interested whats on the horizon at Countess Laboratories 😄 Here are a few broader observations we can share without breaching confidentiality agreements 😜 A general analysis of trends (not client-specific and not meant as criticism). So, what are we working on?
Clients are most fixated on rich formulas when it comes to creams: dense, substantial textures without leaving a greasy film. Even people with combination and oily skin use such products if they are well-formulated. We save ultra-light cream-gels for the 3–4 hot summer months, as the rest of the year in Poland tends to be rather chilly. Besides, mature skin appreciates good blends of oils, butters, and emollients.
In terms of effects on the skin, creams that restore the hydrolipid barrier are the most popular. Even if this isn’t the main modus operandi of the formulation, designing it this way ensures excellent results-clients immediately feel the difference as their skin feels cared for.
We create countless sulfate-free cleansing product formulas. Sulfates are only acceptable in the form of SCS and olefin (and increasingly rarely). Additionally, we constantly develop tricho lines, plenty of professional products, and various SPF formulations.
Types of products and packaging - there aren’t many “unusual” formulations; we mainly focus on classics. Polish consumers approach new cosmetic forms cautiously, and introducing such products requires costly familiarization and encouragement. We already know that several new ideas didn’t catch on: waterless products, bars, concentrates, and refills. However, sticks are developing nicely.
Disliked or fading ingredients - we feel that the situation has stabilized somewhat. Clients have come to terms with the fact that in certain cases, using silicones, lanolin, or beeswax is necessary. Unfortunately, we still encounter expectations that using natural ingredients will achieve the same properties as highly synthetic formulations. For example: recreating a Shiseido cream with 2 types of silicones and 3 types of acrylates while maintaining a minimum of 97-98% naturalness (without the mentioned ingredients) or achieving the same properties as in SLES-based shampoos - extra foam and consistency, extra naturalness, and an extra price 😅 We no longer use excessive amounts of vitamin C, niacinamide, or adaptogens and are very cautious with retinoids. Many of these ingredients are used for their effects (the gray eminence) rather than as hero ingredients. There is considerable interest in exosomes and xanthohumol, but ingredients like vitamin B12 and bakuchiol shot up and faded like a flare. Of course, we still use them due to their excellent effects. Psycho-active ingredients are still in their infancy - perhaps the industry is waiting for a major player to promote this concept? We are also observing a decline, or rather a lack of interest, in the P+E+H concept, which used to be (and perhaps still is?) significant for haircare enthusiasts. Our clients no longer request the addition of these ingredients to formulations. Additionally, we have noticed a decreased interest in creating high-end, luxury formulations. This has many reasons, but one of the most important is the fact that there are far fewer consumers for a shampoo priced at 250 PLN than for one at 60 PLN, and the economics in this regard are relentless. Therefore, we focus on developing many "mid-premium" formulations, positioned just above the mass-market level.
What’s trending now? Ceramides, peptides, gentle acids, antioxidants (xanthohumol, ergothioneine, glutathione, etc.), amino acids, hyaluronic acid (still), a glowing effect, microbiome support, cellular energy boosting, gentle brightening without exfoliation, neck+décolleté care (this could be a new area of interest, much like the scalp was a few years ago). Vitamin C and niacinamide, which flooded the market, are now added in small amounts for synergy with other ingredients. Clients like and value Clean Beauty, but without excessive minimalism - the product must deliver results. Clients prefer raw materials with good INCI, e.g., they prefer resveratrol as a pure substance over a grape extract or exosomes over plant extracts. There is one more trend that has stolen our hearts - well-aging, or pro-aging, which is the acceptance of what affects each of us.
Fragrances-sweet florals, flat fruits, gourmand notes (chocolate, vanilla, coconut, cookies), cucumber, tea, and refreshing aquatic accords are currently passé. Unisex notes dominate wood, resin, herbs, patchouli, juniper. Generally, oriental, luxurious, and opulent. Clients expect scents that are unique, different, seductive, and addictive.
We observe that cosmetics companies are expanding their portfolios to include dietary supplements.
We see the industry utilizing AI and interesting devices for skin analysis, ingredient discovery, formulation design, and cosmetic ingredient testing.
Almost all clients conduct research to substantiate marketing claims, which is very uplifting!
We have a few utopian dreams:
A few years of legislative peace to allow the industry to catch its breath.
Fewer “hollow-shell cosmetics” (more on this in a future post).
A ban on using the word “innovative” for products containing standard ingredients in standard forms; there are too many big words, cosmetic babble, negative marketing, discrediting of ingredients, and promises of miraculous effects - cosmetics are not a scalpel!
And seriously, to conclude - we have ambitious goals planned, but let’s keep them a sweet secret until next year’s summary 😉
