Sun obsessed [2023]
Growing consumer awareness of the need to protect the skin from the sun is driving strong growth in the sun care market.
However, innovation in sunscreen formulations is particularly challenging. For years, the industry has relied on the same core ingredients, with new developments largely limited to subtle modifications of their form and delivery.
Until recently, the most popular sun care products on store shelves were lotions and oils. More recently, however, they have been joined by more modern formats, such as sunscreen sticks.
It is also worth noting that many brands have incorporated sun protection into everyday products - from day creams with SPF 50 and high-SPF foundations and tinted fluids to mineral powders.
The dynamic growth of the natural products market and the widespread use of eco-friendly claims are also driving change in SPF products. Consumers are increasingly looking for formulations that are as close to nature as possible, which is why formulas based on zinc oxide and titanium dioxide are gaining popularity. This trend is particularly important in products designed for children.
Achieving a high SPF with the lowest possible concentration of UV filters is a major challenge. One aspect that deserves particular attention is the integrity of the protective film on the skin. To ensure that this film is as uniform as possible, so-called “SPF boosters” are used. These are substances of very diverse chemical origins and varying degrees of naturalness, including acrylates, PVP, carnauba wax, microcrystalline cellulose, and many others.
A good sunscreen formulation requires a formulator to do more than simply create a stable formula. The key is to achieve a level of UVA and UVB protection confirmed by testing. In addition, our work involves navigating a whole range of consumer requirements and preconceptions, some more and some less justified. They concern many different aspects, with the most common examples being:
Concerns about chemical UV filters — many unreliable bloggers continue to repeat myths about this group of ingredients. The greatest concern is that these substances may penetrate the skin and enter the bloodstream. However, it is important to remember that the European Union permits the use of individual UV filters and considers them safe at specified concentrations.
Concerns about nanoparticles — consumers worry that, because of their small size, these substances may penetrate the epidermis. Under Annex VI of the EU Cosmetics Regulation, the use of nanomaterials is considered safe when specific requirements regarding concentration, purity, coating, and particle characteristics are met. The use of zinc oxide and titanium dioxide in nanoparticle form also makes whitening on the skin almost imperceptible. Combined with a high level of sun protection, this is a significant advantage.
Concerns about titanium dioxide, which in its pure form is a photocatalyst and can generate free radicals. It should be emphasized, however, that pure TiO₂ is not used in sunscreen formulations; only coated grades are used. This means that the particles are covered with other substances, such as a silicone-based coating or alumina (INCI: Alumina). The particle is therefore effectively shielded from radiation and cannot generate free radicals. Importantly, coated oxides also have much better application properties — instead of feeling chalky, they provide a smoother, more satin-like skin feel.
Uncertainty about the environmental safety of chemical UV filters. One of the ingredients at the center of this controversy is Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate, commonly used in sunscreen products and banned in Hawaii because of concerns about its impact on coral reefs.
The significant number of UV filters available on the market can evoke mixed feelings among consumers, resulting in almost continuous monitoring by European regulatory bodies responsible for assessing their safety. Annex VI of the EU Cosmetics Regulation, which contains the list of UV filters permitted for use in cosmetic products, previously contained 31 entries. More recently, the list was expanded to include Methoxypropylamino Cyclohexenylidene Ethoxyethylcyanoacetate, while additional requirements were also introduced for the widely used titanium dioxide.
Rapidly changing global trends are leaving their mark on these products as well, forcing R&D departments that want to keep up with consumer expectations to reformulate existing products and continually search for new and interesting product formats.
Sun protection is, above all, about taking care of our health, and we can expect the market for sun protection products to continue growing.
None of these concerns stop us from creating new formulations or refining those that already exist. Quite the opposite! We love untangling the complicated - with grace and a smile!
If you feel that the beauty industry is calling your name, if you dream of creating your own products - get in touch with us! We’ll be happy to support you every step of the way.
