Are Percentages on the Packaging No Longer Enough? The Biodegradability of Cosmetics

Consumers have become accustomed to seeing high percentages on cosmetic packaging, often perceiving them as an indicator that a product is safer and better, while overlooking products with a low concentration of naturally derived ingredients (NOC). However, the cosmetics industry is constantly evolving, and another important aspect of product design and manufacturing is becoming increasingly relevant: biodegradability.

Biodegradability is becoming an increasingly important criterion for both consumers and manufacturers, driven by growing environmental pollution and the “green” requirements that will increasingly be imposed by regulators.

Biodegradable cosmetics are products that can be naturally broken down by microorganisms such as bacteria, fungi, algae, and protozoa, allowing their components to return to the natural cycle of matter.

This characteristic is becoming increasingly important because conventional cosmetic products can leave persistent traces in ecosystems.

Launching biodegradable cosmetics on the market requires very careful ingredient selection, as achieving the level of efficacy and pleasant sensory properties expected by consumers can be challenging when working with a limited pool of raw materials.

It is not always possible to achieve the desired performance using natural or naturally derived ingredients, and sometimes the only way to improve a product’s properties is to use a synthetic raw material. There is nothing inherently wrong with this, as it is important to remember that ingredients that are permitted for use or are not prohibited are considered safe when used appropriately. Nevertheless, increasingly environmentally conscious consumers tend to view their use negatively because these substances can be washed down the drain and eventually enter aquatic environments, where they may disrupt ecosystems and affect marine life.

Naturalness vs. Biodegradability

This can be illustrated using an average shampoo, whose NOC is approximately 75–85%. The remaining percentage consists of non-natural components, such as preservatives, fragrance compositions, parts of surfactant molecules, conditioning agents, and so on.

Without these “non-natural” components, the shampoo’s performance would be significantly poorer — it would have a runnier consistency, produce less foam, and leave the hair dry and frizzy. This is why some distributors consider not only naturalness according to ISO 16128, but also biodegradability.

The result can be a product with very good performance, moderate naturalness, and high biodegradability. In other words, although some of its ingredients are not naturally derived, they do not pose a significant environmental burden.

In addition to the formulation itself, distributors are also paying increasing attention to the composition and design of the cosmetic’s outer packaging. They are choosing recyclable monomaterial packaging, biodegradable materials, lighter packaging with reduced material use and thinner walls, or designs that can be easily disassembled and separated for recycling. These solutions further reduce the product’s environmental impact.

It is also worth paying attention to cosmetics carrying the EU Ecolabel. This certification is more commonly associated with household cleaning products, but it is attracting increasing interest in the cosmetics industry as well.

This stringent standard goes beyond basic aerobic biodegradability and also considers factors such as anaerobic biodegradability, the toxicological profile of fragrance compositions, the ratio of packaging weight to the amount of cosmetic product (a scrub in a double-wall “thermos” jar would not pass), the use of raw materials derived from oil palm, and many other parameters.

Growing environmental awareness among consumers is making biodegradable cosmetics increasingly popular. Their use can help reduce the negative impact of cosmetic products on the environment while still providing effective and safe personal care products.

The development and promotion of biodegradable cosmetics represent an important step towards a more sustainable and environmentally responsible cosmetics industry.