Against the Trend: Why Are Synthetic Ingredients Used in Cosmetics?

Today’s environmental challenges, such as pollution and climate change, evoke strong emotions and are changing the way we think and the habits we develop. Strict recycling practices, cotton tote bags, and reusable straws have become a permanent part of our everyday lives.

The development of modern natural and biodegradable raw materials that could offer the properties of synthetic polymers without having a negative impact on the environment is the subject of research carried out by many manufacturers. One result of these efforts is cosmetic packaging made from sugarcane-derived materials.

If the cosmetic raw materials industry is also looking for natural solutions, why do cosmetic formulations contain so many synthetic ingredients?

First of all, it is important to remember that all ingredients approved for use in cosmetics must be safe for consumers. Furthermore, at least in theory, cosmetic formulations do not contain unnecessary ingredients - each one has a specific and important function. Synthetic substances in cosmetic formulations most commonly serve as emulsifiers, emollients, thickeners, and preservatives.

If the trend towards natural ingredients is so strong, why aren't only natural ingredients used? The simple answer is that this is not always possible. Working with synthetic substances is often much easier, more predictable, and significantly less expensive. Synthetic emulsifiers such as PEG-100 Stearate, for example, can produce aesthetically pleasing, white, glossy emulsions that are resistant to destabilizing factors such as acids, glycols, and hydrogen peroxide. This is particularly desirable in professional formulations, where active ingredients are used at high concentrations.

To illustrate this, let's take lactobionic acid as an example. In a face cream, at an effective concentration of 5–8%, it can act as a destabilizing ingredient and may cause the emulsion to separate. Therefore, in order to obtain a high-quality product, a formulator may choose raw materials that are resistant to its effects - for example, an emulsifier such as PEG-100 Stearate + Glyceryl Stearate, together with an acrylate-based thickener that is resistant to low pH for additional stabilization.

Alternatively, using natural emulsifiers would require finding the right combination and carrying out numerous formulation trials. Unfortunately, natural thickeners also do not provide the same light, watery skin feel as acrylates, which often means that additional ingredients have to be incorporated to improve the sensory properties of the formulation. All of these changes also affect the cost of the bulk product.

A similar situation applies to shampoos. Finding the right combination of natural conditioning agents that will leave the hair smooth and shiny can be a real test of patience. Many of these ingredients are incompatible with one another or have an adverse effect on the consistency of the formulation. The formulator's role is to correct these changes, which is often most easily achieved with the help of synthetic thickeners.

It is important to remember that using a high concentration of synthetic ingredients in a formulation does not diminish its value. In many cases, it is simply necessary to achieve the desired properties and performance of the product.

So, to sum up: is it possible to use natural ingredients and still achieve satisfactory conditioning, texture, and stability?

Yes, but it is a difficult and time-consuming process, which is why not all manufacturers choose to develop such products. Despite the increasingly visible trend towards using natural ingredients, economic considerations combined with satisfactory product performance remain more important to the majority of customers.