K-beauty designs trusted ingredients differently

Q1. You recently visited Cosmobeauty Seoul and have been observing Korean beauty from a European R&D and formulation perspective. What stood out to you most about K-beauty when you looked at it not as a consumer trend, but as a product development expert?

What struck me most was the deep trust in classic, proven ingredients.

In Europe - and particularly in Poland - we are still in the midst of an “ingredient race.” Consumers constantly expect novelty and are drawn to exotic ingredients from distant parts of the world, such as New Zealand, Argentina, or Japan. As a result, formulators are continually searching for new and rare raw materials. European cosmetic companies often try to differentiate themselves through marketing ingredients.In Korea, however, I had the impression that it is perfectly acceptable for the same six or seven key cosmetic ingredients to appear across almost every major brand.

There seems to be a fairly established division of functions: hyaluronic acid for hydration, cica for soothing, retinol for anti-aging, tea tree for acne care, vitamin C and niacinamide for brightening, and PDRN for firming and lifting. The difference between brands often lies in the concentration of these ingredients rather than in the ingredients themselves, because communication is built around one hero ingredient.In Europe, we more often design cosmetic lines by first diagnosing a specific skin concern and then combining multiple ingredients to create a multi-level, synergistic effect.

Another interesting difference is how credibility is communicated. In Europe, brands frequently use the trade names of cosmetic raw materials on packaging to emphasize quality and innovation. 

In Korea, I hardly noticed this approach. Instead, credibility is built around ingredients that consumers already recognize and trust. Ironically, many of these classic ingredients are now considered somewhat outdated in Europe, and relatively few new product launches are centered around them.

Q2. Many people outside Korea still understand K-beauty through packaging, trends, or viral products.  From a formulation and product innovation point of view, what do you think makes Korean beauty different from European beauty?

Korean formulators have developed a distinctive approach that reflects the specific needs of their consumers: differences in skin characteristics such as a thicker dermis and higher sebum production as well as climatic conditions, especially higher humidity levels.

As a result, Korean formulations rely heavily on humectants, particularly various glycols, and are often presented as cream-gels or lightweight emulsions. I experienced this myself during a week in Seoul, where the high humidity made me naturally gravitate toward lighter, less oily products than those I typically use in my skincare routine in Poland.

Korean formulations focus strongly on long-lasting hydration through humectants and place significant emphasis on sensory experience. In Europe, by contrast, we tend to build increasingly long ingredient lists filled with botanical extracts and oils.

Another notable difference is the emphasis on naturalness. In Europe, there is a strong natural beauty movement that I did not observe to the same extent in Korea. Korean brands seem to have found a practical balance between naturality, sensory pleasure, and product performance.

Sometimes Europe reaches certain extremes, where highly natural formulations are expected from local brands, while consumers do not apply the same standards to Korean products. Thanks to their exceptional textures, pleasant sensory profiles (often achieved through synthetic ingredients) and their innovative presentation, consumers tend to forgive much more when it comes to Korean cosmetics.

From my observations, Korean products are typically built around one hero ingredient, which is not necessarily new or innovative, and then supported with hydrating and soothing ingredients. I believe this is a very sensible approach.In Europe, we often create entire ingredient complexes as a marketing differentiator, sometimes even selecting botanical extracts based on how their colors align with a brand's visual identity. Alternatively, brands may highlight two or three key ingredients on the packaging.If I had to choose one approach as superior, I would say that I cannot. Both systems work well.

They simply offer different ways of meeting individual consumer needs, whether those relate to skin concerns, sensory preferences (sight, smell, and touch), or the level of commitment someone is willing to dedicate to their skincare routine.

Q3. You recently wrote about body care and the idea that this category may be ready for a new wave of innovation.  How do you see the future of body care, and what role could Korean beauty play in that transformation?

I hope that many of the active ingredients currently used in facial skincare will gradually find their way into body care products.

While the body ages somewhat differently from the face, body skin also requires barrier repair, deep hydration, and brightening support.

Most mass-market body care products remain relatively limited in terms of active ingredients, quality oils and butters, and effective moisturizing factors. Today, many body products function primarily as barrier products, providing hydration indirectly through occlusion rather than by genuinely nourishing the skin. As a result, their effects are often short-lived.

At the same time, the large volumes associated with body care products create significant cost pressures. Consumers are generally less willing to spend substantial amounts on a body lotion or shower gel.

However, modern consumers already dedicate a considerable portion of their budgets to personal care and wellness. I believe many are ready to invest in a high-quality body lotion if they can clearly see and feel the difference. To me, a truly good product is one that is biocompatible - containing ingredients that the skin can benefit from and that provide a noticeable, long-lasting skincare effect.

I believe a moment will soon come when consumers begin demanding more from body care.During the trade show, I noticed that skincare in Korea is approached with genuine care and viewed as part of maintaining overall health and well-being. Yet the face represents only about 3–5% of our total skin surface area, leaving another 95–97% that also deserves attention.

Korea is uniquely positioned to play an important role in this evolution. It captures global attention, sets trends, and opens the door to new ideas.

It is entirely possible that Korean brands will help educate consumers and lead the next major transformation in the world of body care.

Zuzanna Fedyczak dla PIECES 10.06.2026

https://coreaxislab.com/posts/zuzanna-fedyczak-countess-laboratories-ceo