From Fermentation to Formulation – Bioferments in Modern Skincare

The global beauty industry’s attention remains firmly focused on Korea, from where innovative cosmetic ingredients continue to reach us. Bioferments — a term that is currently far more appealing than “fermented foods” — are not, strictly speaking, a new phenomenon. The beneficial properties of fermented products have been known for centuries, but it was the Asian philosophy of skincare that first brought them into everyday cosmetic use. There is a certain inconsistency in the way we approach these ingredients: we find a kimchi bioferment appealing because it is exotic, while sauerkraut no longer seems quite so interesting.

The way ingredients are presented plays a significant role here, partly because an exotic or more technological name can make them more attractive. Yet the success of bioferments cannot be explained by marketing alone. Their undeniably high efficacy is the real reason why the Korean bioferment trend has won consumers’ hearts.

Cosmetic bioferments are postbiotics — products of microbial fermentation. They can be classified into several types depending on their origin:

• Pure bacterial or yeast ferments, e.g. Lactobacillus Ferment

• Plant-based ferments, e.g. Lactobacillus/Centella Asiatica Extract Ferment Filtrate (the bacterial strain is named together with the fermented plant)

• Mineral ferments, e.g. Saccharomyces/Copper Ferment

• Algal ferments, e.g. Marinobacter Shengliensis/Spirulina Maxima Extract Ferment Filtrate

• Fermented oils, e.g. fermented camellia oil, INCI: Pseudozyma Epicola/Camellia Japonica Seed Oil Ferment Extract Filtrate. These can provide a lighter, non-greasy skin feel, improved absorption and emulsifying properties.

In cosmetics, ferments can also be classified according to how the raw material is processed:

• Ferment filtrate is obtained by removing microbial cells through filtration. It contains substances released by the microorganisms into their environment, such as amino acids, vitamins, organic acids, peptides and enzymes. Its action is generally gentle, and the raw material is stable.

• Ferment lysate is produced by breaking open microbial cells. It therefore contains a broader range of valuable components, including cell wall fragments, membrane lipids, nucleotides, DNA/RNA and structural proteins. For this reason, it may have some allergenic potential. This is rare, but worth keeping in mind.

• Ferment extract is obtained by extracting active substances using various solvents.

The applications of bioferments in cosmetics are remarkably broad, as they offer a wide range of beneficial effects. One of their most important benefits is their ability to nourish and support the skin microbiome and epidermis with readily assimilable nutrients. This primarily translates into soothing and hydrating effects.

Other benefits, however, should be considered in the context of the desired result or specific skin concern, as they vary depending on the source of the ferment:

1. Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate – soothing, anti-wrinkle, reparative, smoothing and brightening effects, particularly for dull and tired-looking skin.

2. Lactobacillus Ferment/Ferment Filtrate – smoothing, barrier strengthening, antioxidant and brightening effects, anti-inflammatory activity and potential to limit the growth of C. acnes.

3. Bifida Ferment Lysate – strengthening the skin’s protective barrier, protecting DNA, supporting regeneration in inflammatory acne and following retinoid therapy, and, at low concentrations, soothing skin lesions.

4. Saccharomyces Ferment Filtrate – hydration and support for skin regeneration; may also increase collagen synthesis.

5. Pseudoalteromonas Ferment Filtrate – reducing sebum production, minimising the appearance of pores and accelerating skin regeneration.

Scientists are conducting extensive research into ferments derived from a wide variety of microbial strains and ingredients. This has led to the introduction of cosmetic raw materials with remarkable and often unexpected skincare properties. Their applications include:

1. Acne, protection against blue light and stretch marks – Pseudoalteromonas Ferment Extract.

2. An instant lifting effect – Alteromonas Ferment Extract, which acts on neuromuscular communication.

3. Brightening pigmentation – Bifida Ferment Lysate, through its antioxidant and soothing effects following UV exposure.

4. Improving the eye contour, soothing and restoring the skin barrier – Bacillus Ferment.

5. Anti-inflammatory activity and support for growth factors – the mineral biochelate Saccharomyces/Copper Ferment.

6. Antioxidant activity – Haematococcus Pluvialis Extract & Yeast Ferment Extract.

The properties and effects of a bioferment on the skin depend on the raw material subjected to fermentation. When reading the INCI lists of cosmetic products, we may get the impression that every ferment with the same name works in exactly the same way. However, it is important to remember that the INCI nomenclature system groups and generalises ingredient names. Thus, under Lactobacillus Ferment, we may expect general antioxidant and microbiome-supporting activity, together with additional properties that differentiate one ingredient from another.

This is because Lactobacillus is the name of a bacterial genus comprising approximately 150 species, including L. casei, L. plantarum and L. rhamnosus. The consumer does not know which bacterial strain was used to obtain a particular raw material. Therefore, assessing its efficacy based on the INCI name alone is not straightforward, unless the manufacturer discloses the ingredient’s trade name.

Some consumers are still unconvinced by the efficacy of bioferments because they do not see spectacular results comparable to those associated with retinol, high concentrations of vitamin C or niacinamide. The reason is that the skin and its microbiome need time to develop a response to the nutrients supplied - through self-regulation, the production of collagen fibres and the restoration of the skin barrier.

The concentrations of nutrients in ferments are lower, and the ferment itself is generally used at only a few per cent. Their efficacy therefore cannot be compared with a high-dose treatment containing 15% vitamin C. In people with a disrupted microbiome, such as those experiencing acne or atopic dermatitis, the effects may become noticeable more quickly. In users with a relatively healthy microbiome, the primary benefit is prevention, including support for healthy skin ageing.

It is worth remembering that the effects of ferments are more subtle. In return, they can contribute to a deeper, longer-lasting sense of skin wellbeing, without irritation or overstimulation.

From a cosmetic perspective, to maximise the benefits of bioferment-based formulations, it is worth looking for additional supporting ingredients, such as:

1. Prebiotics – inulin, alpha-glucan oligosaccharide, beta-glucan and fructose.

2. Components of the skin’s hydrolipidic mantle:

   • NMF (Natural Moisturising Factor) – amino acids, lactates, sugars, PCA and urea.

   • Intercellular cement – ceramides, squalane, essential fatty acids, triglycerides and cholesterol.

The growing problem of acne among young people, as well as adult acne, has focused scientific attention on finding new, gentler solutions than retinoids or benzoyl peroxide. Their efficacy is undeniable, but so are their potential side effects. People struggling with breakouts may benefit from a wide range of bioferments, with Lactobacillus, Bifida and Pseudoalteromonas among the most promising. However, it is worth bearing in mind that, in the case of purulent, active acne, a filtrate may be the gentler option, while a lysate may be considered in inflammatory acne.

In conclusion, bioferments are not a passing trend or a marketing-driven “beautification” of an INCI list. They are the result of years of research into the relationship between the skin and microorganisms. Their strength lies not in an immediate, spectacular effect, but in the long-term support of skin physiology - restoring balance, strengthening its natural defences and improving its overall quality in a natural and gentle way.

At a time when skin is increasingly burdened by aggressive skincare routines, bioferments fit naturally into the trends of skin wellness, longevity, slow beauty and preventive health. They represent a more conscious approach to skin wellbeing, rather than the constant pursuit of stronger stimulation.

It is therefore reasonable to suggest that the future of cosmetology may not lie in increasingly powerful stimuli, but in a more intelligent cooperation with the microbiome. Bioferments are one of the most important tools in this strategy.

Zuzanna Fedyczak for Med&Beauty Magazine