Cosmetic Exfoliating Preparations – Safety of Use

Aug 21

9 min read

Peels in Cosmetics

Peels have enjoyed unwavering popularity in cosmetics for many years. They are one of the basic skincare treatments used to improve the appearance of the skin, even out its tone, smooth its texture and stimulate regenerative processes. Used by many people at home or as part of professional salon treatments, peels offer a very wide range of possibilities. Depending on the client’s needs and the condition of their skin, cosmetic manufacturers offer tailor-made solutions – from gentle refreshing treatments to intensive exfoliating therapies.

Types of Peels

Peels are primarily classified according to the way dead skin cells are removed, i.e. the type of ingredients used. However, the area of the body being exfoliated is also important – the face is treated differently from the scalp or feet.

Face Peels

The most popular exfoliating products for home use are acid peels. This remains a strong trend, primarily because of their effectiveness and relatively good safety profile. Retail products are usually formulated with a total acid concentration not exceeding 5–10%, and their effects are milder than those of professional salon products. It is important to remember that some of these products require the use of photoprotection.

Among the most common acids are:

Mandelic acid – one of the most frequently selected acids for home skincare. It is relatively gentle and well tolerated by most skin types.
Glycolic acid (at low concentrations) – available in toners and serums. It helps smooth the skin and improve its tone.
Salicylic acid – very popular in anti-acne products. It effectively cleanses pores and reduces the number of comedones.
Lactobionic acid and gluconolactone – particularly recommended for sensitive, couperose-prone skin and rosacea. They work gently, moisturise the skin and do not cause intensive exfoliation.
Azelaic acid (10–15%) – used for pigmentation and acne.
Lactic acid – gently exfoliates and moisturises the skin, supporting the reduction of pigmentation.
Shikimic acid – steadily gaining popularity.
Succinic acid – a newer alternative to salicylic acid, which many consumers avoid because of its relatively aggressive action.
Kojic acid – highly active, which is why it is relatively rarely found in home-use products.
Maltobionic acid – an excellent humectant that helps improve skin hydration and supports collagen production while protecting skin cells from oxidative stress and photodamage.
Tranexamic acid – used in home-care products at concentrations of 2–5%. One of its major advantages is its good tolerability: it generally does not cause stinging or intensive peeling, which is particularly important for sensitive and couperose-prone skin. It can be used throughout the year, although, as with any depigmentation treatment, SPF protection is essential. It is often combined with other active ingredients such as azelaic acid, vitamin C or retinol.

Enzyme peels are an excellent option for people with very sensitive skin or simply as an alternative to acids. It is worth remembering that excessive exfoliation can lead to hypersensitivity and overstimulation. Enzymes such as bromelain, papain and proteases therefore provide an effective alternative. They smooth the skin without the risk of photosensitivity, which means they can be used more frequently than acid peels.

Mechanical peels were widely used in facial skincare around 10–15 years ago. The main reason consumers moved away from them was concern about irritation and damage to the epidermis caused by abrasive particles, such as nut shells or polylactic acid particles. To some extent, this criticism is justified. People suffering from acne vulgaris or rosacea should generally avoid mechanical peels, as they can aggravate skin lesions and interfere with the healing of existing wounds.

For other consumers, however, it is worth remembering that particles appropriately sized for delicate facial skin do not necessarily have irritating properties, and mechanical exfoliation remains a good way to smooth the skin. A few such products can still be found in beauty stores.

Because mechanical peels act only on the stratum corneum, they produce less spectacular results. Enzyme peels provide excellent smoothing, but likewise do not offer many additional benefits beyond exfoliation. This is precisely why acid peels have rapidly conquered both retail shelves and bathroom cabinets: their action is multidimensional, can be personalised depending on the acid used, and is highly effective.

They act at several levels of the skin. They not only remove dead skin cells but can also deeply moisturise, reduce pigmentation, stimulate renewal and collagen synthesis, and even help regulate the skin microbiome.

Professional and Specialist Peels

Professional peels are dominated by acid-based products. They should be selected and applied by an experienced professional. In practice, this means that a cosmetologist can, based on their expertise, the client’s particular skin concern and the desired outcome, use either a single-acid or multi-acid product. The type and concentration of acids have a crucial influence on the intensity of the treatment.

The professional also determines the contact time between the product and the skin. Obviously, different blends are used for people with acne vulgaris than for those with thin, dull or greyish skin.

The best results can often be achieved by combining acids with different molecular sizes and penetration rates, allowing different mechanisms of action to be exploited at different levels of the skin.

Cosmetic manufacturers most commonly develop professional salon products at concentrations of 15%, 20% or 30%. Each acid has its own specific properties and effects resulting from its chemical structure.

The most common include:

Kojic acid – currently permitted at a concentration of only 1% (previously 5%); used mainly in depigmenting products.
Tranexamic acid – has brightening and anti-inflammatory properties. It is rather unusual because, despite its relatively small molecule, it is not an exfoliating acid. It does not mechanically remove the stratum corneum but instead affects the process of melanin formation. It inhibits excessive melanocyte activity, effectively reducing pigmentation and helping prevent its recurrence. It is particularly valuable in the treatment of melasma and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, as well as in combination treatments, for example with microneedling, mesotherapy or chemical peels.
Azelaic acid and its water-soluble derivative, azeloglycine – frequently used for rosacea, pigmentation and inflammatory conditions. It has antibacterial and brightening properties. In trichology, it is also used to address hair loss.
Glycolic acid – has a very small molecule and therefore penetrates deeply into the skin. It is used in anti-ageing treatments, for pigmentation and to improve skin texture. It provides intensive exfoliation and stimulates collagen production, which makes it popular in anti-ageing protocols. However, it can cause irritation.
Aminoethylphosphinic acid – a gentle acid suitable for reducing pigmentation without exfoliation or irritation. It is effective at low concentrations of 0.5–1.5%.
Mandelic acid – extremely popular among people with sensitive and acne-prone skin. It has antibacterial properties, regulates sebum production and brightens pigmentation. Due to its larger molecule, it acts more gently than glycolic acid and is therefore often selected as a first professional peel.
Shikimic acid – has antibacterial and sebum-regulating properties, helps unblock sebaceous gland openings, reduces the proliferation of P. acnes, cleanses pores, gently exfoliates and moisturises. It is most commonly used in blends with other acids.
Salicylic acid – has anti-inflammatory and pore-cleansing properties. It is also relatively inexpensive, making it a first-choice ingredient for people with acne vulgaris. For safety reasons, its permitted concentration in the finished product cannot exceed 2%. This ingredient can significantly affect the skin barrier, which is why new methods of gradual release or mitigation of its effects are being explored. Furthermore, it is not water-soluble, which creates a common formulation challenge. The industry has therefore developed interesting alternatives, including encapsulated salicylic acid and salicin. Although salicin is an extremely expensive raw material, it has anti-inflammatory, soothing, antioxidant and gently exfoliating properties and is therefore a natural precursor of salicylic acid.
Ferulic acid – acts primarily as an antioxidant rather than an exfoliant. It is used in blends with other acids to help prevent collagen degradation and brighten pigmentation.
Phytic acid – an antioxidant with strong exfoliating properties comparable to glycolic acid. It can inhibit melanin synthesis, with an effect that can be compared to vitamin C.
Rosmarinic acid – gaining popularity. It has antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial properties. Its antibacterial activity and proven ability to reduce inflammation make it a desirable ingredient in acne treatment.
Lactic acid – penetrates somewhat more slowly than glycolic acid but provides excellent exfoliation, thereby helping reduce the appearance of wrinkles and smooth the skin.
Succinic acid – an excellent alternative to salicylic acid because it reduces the number of skin lesions and sebum production while being considerably gentler on the epidermis and having no concentration restrictions.
Lactobionic acid and gluconolactone – very gentle, non-irritating acids that do not cause significant exfoliation. Lactobionic acid can help reduce telangiectasia, stimulate fibroblasts, improve epidermal barrier integrity, firm the skin and reduce redness. Gluconolactone, in turn, reduces redness, softens wrinkles, firms the skin, neutralises free radicals, tightens sebaceous gland openings, has anti-acne properties and supports the care of rosacea-prone skin.
Maslinic acid – stimulates cellular renewal, supports rejuvenation and limits skin degradation caused by inflammatory processes. It provides excellent hydration, thickens the epidermis and supports wrinkle filling. It is very safe and effective even at very low concentrations.
TCA (trichloroacetic acid) – an extremely intensive medical peel. It is used to reduce scars, deeper pigmentation and wrinkles. It requires an experienced professional and appropriate post-treatment care because it causes the skin to peel in large sheets.

Mechanical peels, including microdermabrasion, are also popular in beauty salons. The treatment involves controlled abrasion of the stratum corneum using a specialised diamond or corundum tip. Microdermabrasion smooths the skin and reduces the appearance of fine lines, acne scars and enlarged pores. Results can be visible after the first treatment, although the best results are usually achieved through a series of treatments.

Foot Peels

In this category, exfoliating foot socks are unquestionably the market leader. They are primarily based on lactic and glycolic acids. Thanks to their low pH, they are sufficiently effective to cause shedding of the stratum corneum across the entire sole of the foot, with effects lasting for as long as several weeks.

However, they are not without drawbacks. Due to the specific design of the socks, which enclose the entire foot, including the upper surface, considerable irritation can occur. The thick skin of the heel naturally responds well to high acid concentrations and low pH, whereas the upper part of the foot is covered with a much thinner epidermis, for which these conditions are too aggressive.

Podiatrists are increasingly warning consumers to use such products with caution or to avoid them altogether. Alternatives include foot creams containing acids or, potentially, urea creams at concentrations of 15% or 30%.

Mechanical foot peels are well established in the beauty industry, although their effectiveness against thickened, calloused skin is limited and significantly lower than that of acid-based products. Salt and sugar scrubs are popular, as are products containing water-insoluble particles such as nut shells, volcanic sand or coffee.

Enzyme peels are very rarely found in foot-care products. The high cost of enzymes and their lower effectiveness compared with acids makes them uncompetitive in the beauty market.

Body Peels

Body peels are dominated by products containing mechanical exfoliating particles – primarily sugar and salt, as well as nut shells and, less frequently, coffee.

Acid and enzyme peels require a relatively long contact time to be effective, making them impractical for most body-care applications, which is why they are rarely encountered in this category.

Another, albeit still uncommon, method of body exfoliation is dry brushing or exfoliation with coarse sponges such as loofah.

Scalp Peels

As part of the skinification trend, scalp peels have taken over beauty-store shelves. They are not only a method of maintaining a clean and healthy scalp but can also support proper keratinisation, the scalp microbiome and hair growth.

The most popular products are liquid peels based on lactic or shikimic acid, and sometimes glycolic acid.

An interesting alternative is salt-based exfoliation using Dead Sea salt, which, thanks to its high mineral content and relatively large particles, does not irritate the scalp while helping to nourish and soothe it.

Summary

Exfoliation has become an essential part of a skincare routine. However, there are several important aspects to keep in mind, the most important being the careful and considered selection of the product.

Many manufacturers offer a wide range of different types of peels, but it is important to remember that there are significant differences between home-use and professional products. The most important include concentration, pH (professional products have a pH below 3) and the depth at which the active ingredients act.

Sometimes consumers seeking quick results purchase acid blends intended primarily for professional salon use. However, improperly performed treatments can cause irritation and overstimulation of the skin lasting for many weeks.

In a professional setting, results are faster and more dramatic, but they require supervision by a specialist. At home, the effects are gentler, but systematic use helps maintain results and support the effects of professional treatments.

It is also important to remember that not all acids are suitable for year-round use. Some are better reserved for the winter months, including glycolic acid, salicylic acid and TCA.

Sun protection is equally important, as inadequate photoprotection can undermine the results of pigmentation treatments.

When in doubt, it is worth consulting a specialist who can assess the condition of the skin, identify its needs and determine any potential contraindications. This ensures that the treatment is not only effective but also safe.

Regular exfoliation can also improve the absorption of active ingredients from skincare products, helping the skin look healthy, fresh and radiant.

Zuzanna Fedyczak dla Chemia i Biznes Kosmetyki i detergenty 2/2026 s.12